A furnace pilot light going out can range from a nuisance to dangerous. We’ll discuss what the pilot light is, common reasons why it keeps going out, and how you can relight it.

What is a Pilot Light

The pilot light is the small flame that, usually, doesn’t go out. It’s found inside the combustion chamber and receives a continual gas supply to keep it burning. The pilot acts as the ignition source for the furnace burners which are responsible for producing your home’s heat.

Reasons Pilot Light Keeps Going Out

Pilot Light is Dirty

The pilot light flame sits in a small opening, also called the pilot orifice. Because the opening is so small, it doesn’t take much dust, dirt, ash, or soot to impede the gas flow and cause the pilot light to go out. If the flame is weak — yellowish or orange instead of blue with a green tint — it likely has a dirty opening.

Thermocouple Fails (broken, dirty, off center)

The thermocouple is the copper rod located next to the pilot light. It’s connected to the gas valve and acts as a safety sensor, telling the gas flow when to turn off. Over time the workload begins to take a toll and the thermocouple may fail for one of these reasons.

• Broken or burned out: Since the thermocouple is a piece of metal, it goes through the expansion and contraction cycle many times when it heats and cools. This cycle causes wear and eventual breakdown or failure.
• Dirty: The thermocouple location is perfect for ash, soot, dirt, and other debris to collect on the surface and interfere with its ability to communicate with the gas line.
• Off-center: Sometimes the expansion and contraction can cause the thermocouple to move out of alignment. Without full engulfment from the pilot light flame, the thermocouple thinks there’s an issue and tells the gas to stop flowing, shutting off the flame.

Drafty Basement or Attic

Because the attic or basement often have enough unused space to house the furnace and its necessary ductwork, they’re the chosen installation location. But both rooms are known for drafts and mysterious airflow that can be strong enough to blow out the pilot light. Sporadically check these rooms for drafts and repair the air leak(s) as soon as possible.

How to Re-Light Pilot Light

Although relighting the pilot light for a gas furnace is usually straightforward, if you suspect the issue is something else in the furnace, contact an HVAC technician. It’s better to err on the side of caution when dealing with a gas-fueled appliance.

Check the Manual

Your furnace’s owner’s manual will have the most specific instructions for handling the pilot light. If you can’t find it, check the manufacturer’s website as most companies have free digital versions of support materials.

Turn off the Gas

Turn off the power supply, usually at the circuit breaker, then turn off the gas. Wait at least five minutes for the remaining gas to dispel before moving to the next steps. Otherwise, any remaining gas could ignite when you relight the pilot light and cause a flash fire and/or injury.

Reset the Gas and Light the Pilot Light

Before turning the gas supply back on, look for a small dial at the bottom of the furnace. This dial should have ‘on’, ‘off,’ and ‘pilot’ options for controlling the gas flow. Turn the gas back on to the unit then turn the dial to pilot — it will allow gas to start flowing to the pilot opening again. Press and release the reset button then use a long lighter to relight the pilot.

Pilot Light Safety and Maintenance Tips

Schedule Routine Tune-Ups and Maintenance

Pilot lights do occasionally go out, but the occasion should be rare. If yours is going out on a regular schedule, it usually means there’s a bigger issue at play within the furnace. Luckily for you, regular furnace maintenance is a great way to avoid these situations. By scheduling routine tune-ups with an HVAC technician, they’ll thoroughly look over the system, including:

• Inspecting the vent system and removing debris
• Examining the heat exchanger.
• Checking the burner and flame sensor
• Testing the furnace’s safety controls

An added bonus of furnace maintenance? It helps your unit work efficiently which saves you money.

Make sure to Change Your Air Filter

The air filter helps keep dust, fur, and hair from flowing into and out of your furnace, improving the indoor air quality of your home. It also keeps the furnace operating by stopping these particulates from coating internal components. But when the filter clogs, you may notice more junk in the air and less warm air coming from the furnace. It’s recommended to change the air filter every two to three months to avoid any hiccups.

Place Carbon Monoxide Detectors in Bedrooms

Carbon monoxide (CO) is a byproduct of combustion in any gas-fueled appliance, including furnaces. This odorless and tasteless gas is dangerous to humans and animals, and can leak from a furnace at any time. This is why it’s extremely important to keep CO detectors in every room, especially bedrooms, so you and loved ones can be alerted at any time of day.

Regular maintenance and professional repairs are the best way to keep your furnace pilot light burning at all times.

If you’ve ever wondered if the air vents in your home need to be where they are, the likely answer is yes. Here we’ll discuss the pros and cons of having air vents high or low, and why the two types are needed.

Air Supply Register and Return Grill Basics

Each room should have a supply and return vent

Both vents are needed to create sufficient air circulation for ample heating and cooling. Without the supply and return vents, rooms develop uneven temperature and air pressure zones which affects your overall comfort and efficiency of the HVAC system.

However, if you notice a room only has a supply vent, look at the bottom of the door — chances are it has a gap at the bottom. The gap is designed to allow air to flow out of the room to a return and not create an uneven pressure and temperature area.

How do supply and return vents work?

The supply air vent is responsible for supplying or bringing conditioned air from the HVAC unit into a room. The return vent pulls or sucks flat air back into the HVAC to be reconditioned, starting the air cycle again.

Do I have an air register or air grill?

You likely have both covering the two types of vents. Air registers are found on the supply vent; they have a damper or moveable flaps to allow full or partial airflow. Air grills are on the return vent and get their name from the resemblance to cooking grill grates.

Floor Vent Pros

If you want or enjoy more heat than cooling, floor vents are naturally more efficient for heat since heat rises.

• Easy to maintain: Because of their accessibility, you can clean floor vents with a broom, vacuum, or wash rag, plus repair dings or mars without needing a ladder and spotter.
• Can blend into floor design: When properly recessed into the floor, these vents can blend in with the sight lines, especially for composite or hardwood floors.

Floor Vent Cons

• Aesthetics: Most floor vents are painted metal, which means they can chip and mar and stick out aesthetically. Plus, there aren’t many design options available to choose from.
• Noisy: The vents may rattle and otherwise make noise whenever the HVAC system starts up and begins blowing air into the ducts.

Ceiling Vent Pros

On the other hand, if you prefer or use more cooling because of the geographic climate, ceiling vents are more efficient at cooling than their floor counterparts.

• Blend into sight lines: Skilled installers can blend ceiling vents into the ceilings so that most people won’t notice they’re there unless someone is standing under the supply vent.
• Furniture placement: Furniture won’t impede the air flow from ceiling vents so you can position it wherever you want.

Ceiling Vent Cons

• HVAC unit in unconditioned space: With ceiling vents, the HVAC unit is usually installed in the attic which is often subjected to extreme temperatures. These temperature swings can cause undue wear and tear on the unit.
• Needs powerful blower: For heat to reach the living area from ceiling vents, the HVAC unit needs to have a powerful blower to counter heat’s natural ability to rise.

Does it help to close vents in unused rooms?

No. Each HVAC system is designed to heat and cool a particular square footage and delivers a set volume of conditioned air to meet the requirements. When you close these vents, the HVAC continues to deliver the set amount. This causes the air pressure inside the ductwork to build, possibly causing the ducts to warp or leak which reduces the efficiency and comfort. And, without air going into the return vent, the HVAC works harder than necessary to pull flat air back in, which causes wear and tear.

It all depends on your personal needs

While you can organize the air vents based on the geographic climate, or the most efficient suggestion of the time, it all comes down to your personal needs and desires. Heating and cooling a home varies widely but you can find what works for you by working with an HVAC professional.

Improve Your Indoor Comfort with These Tips

Don’t block vents

Try to keep at least one foot of clearance around all sides of the supply and return vents, regardless of where they’re placed. Pay attention to how taller objects, such as bookcases, fit with the wall and some ceiling vents.

Replace the air filter

A clogged air filter reduces the amount of air flowing from the HVAC system to the vents. Remember to change the air every two to three months, or sooner if you live in a dusty environment.

Schedule regular HVAC maintenance

When your HVAC system is in good shape, it provides conditioned air through the vents on demand, no matter where the vents are located. Regular maintenance allows a trained technician to inspect the system from top to bottom and take a proactive approach to any potential issues rather than reacting and repairing.

No matter your personal preference for vent location, it’s always a good idea to keep up with regular HVAC maintenance so your home stays comfortable year-round.

You love your pets, and you adore plants but don’t know which plants are friendly for your furry friends. We’re here to give you a list of the best pet friendly plants, many of which have easy care needs.

African Violet

Known for its deep purple petals, the African violet is the perfect accompaniment to a living room side table or bedroom nightstand. It thrives in low to bright filtered light and enjoys average room temperatures and humidity.

Baby’s Tears

This slow growing plant features delicate leaves that resemble teardrops. Baby’s tears look great as a hanging plant, showing off its trailing stems, or in a traditional planter. Give it filtered light, consistent water, and above average room temperatures.

Banana

A stunner by nature, banana plants add height and a conversation starter to any home. But it does have particular care needs, namely full sun, plenty of water, well-draining soil, and lots of humidity. Banana plants have been known to produce bananas with the right indoor conditions.

Spider Plant

Though its trailing leaves look fragile, the spider plant is quite robust. Known for its ability to purify the air around it, the spider plant can handle a range of indoor temperatures but prefers bright yet indirect light and only watering when the soil is completely dry.

Venus Fly Trap

If you’re looking for a plant to dote on the way you do your pets, then the Venus fly trap could be perfect. While it takes care of its nutritional needs by catching unsuspecting flies and small insects, it does best in higher temperatures with humidity and good air circulation.

Areca Palm

With full green fronds, the areca palm looks lush but is a low maintenance, pet friendly plant. It can handle average indoor temperatures but does need indirect, bright light and well-draining soil. Allow the areca palm to dry out between waterings to avoid root rot.

Boston Fern

When given the right indoor conditions, the Boston fern returns years of lush green and bushy fronds. It needs medium to high amounts of indirect light, moist soil, and doesn’t mind a bit of humidity. The Boston fern does well as a hanging or traditional potted plant.

Calathea

Known for its striking patterns on the leaf tops, the calathea is native to the tropics and does best with these conditions indoors. Provide filtered or indirect natural light, higher temperatures and humidity, and moist soil for best results. The calathea can mature within a year.

Peperomia

The Peperomia family is known for its eye-catching leaves featuring almost symmetric designs. Plus, its small size is great for coffee tables, open kitchen shelves, and office desks. Make sure the Peperomia has partial to full indirect light, well-draining soil, and moderate humidity and temperatures.

Orchid

Known for their clustered but stylish petals, orchids are pet-friendly and relatively easy to care for. Provide with bright, indirect light; moderate humidity and temperatures; and orchid-specific soil. Orchids usually bloom during the colder months.

Mosaic Plant

Similar to the Peperomia in size and stand-out leaf designs, the mosaic plant has colorful veins streaking through the leaves. Its care needs are easy — bright but indirect light, moderate temperatures and humidity, and only water when the topsoil dries out.

Bromeliad

A tropical plant, bromeliads can grow with or without soil, making it perfect for pet parents who live with diggers. These plants have a wide rosette shape with strap-like leaves but only bloom once in their lifetime and under the right conditions. Bromeliads need bright light with moderate temperatures and humidity.

Ponytail Palm

This cousin to edible asparagus is a bit quirky, but that’s why we love the ponytail palm. It thrives in full sun with average indoor conditions, and stores extra water in its large, bulb-like roots. But, the ponytail palm still appreciates water every week to week and a half.

Royal Velvet Plant

No, the royal velvet plant doesn’t have built-in lights — hundreds of fine, tiny hairs cause the leaves to shimmer in the right light angle. Give it average indoor temperatures and humidity levels and moist (but not soggy) soil and the royal velvet plant can reach maturity in a few weeks.

Echeveria

Like most of its succulent relatives, the echeveria is popular among plant lovers and pet friendly! Don’t worry about spending too much time with your pets and not this plant — it loves a bit of neglect. Just make sure your echeveria has well-draining soil, full sun, and a splash of water from time to time.

Enjoy your pets and plants inside with any of these pet friendly plants!

On a hot summer day, homeowners rely on their air conditioners to provide respite indoors. This comfort comes to them through science or the AC refrigerant flowing inside the air conditioner. We’ll discuss what refrigerant is, the different types used then and now, and signs you may have a refrigerant leak.

What is Refrigerant?

Refrigerant is the chemical inside an air conditioner that changes its physical state under defined conditions, such as applying high pressure. During these changes is when the air conditioner creates cool air. Each air conditioner is charged or loaded with an amount of refrigerant appropriate for the overall unit size, such as how many square feet it can cool.

What are the Different Types of Refrigerants?

Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)

CFCs were the first non-flammable and non-toxic refrigerants used in air conditioners. They were banned from use in air conditioners in the early 1990s. Unfortunately, CFCs contribute substantially to greenhouse gasses in the atmosphere and the breakdown of the ozone layer.

R-22 Refrigerant

Developed in the 1950s and the standard air conditioner refrigerant for six decades, R-22 refrigerant differs from its predecessor through an added hydrogen atom. Though this atom shortens its environmental lifespan, R-22 was banned for use in new air conditioners in 2010 because of its ecological impact.

AC units built or installed before 2010 likely use R-22 but now may need to be entirely replaced due to its tightly controlled supply in the United States.

R-410A Refrigerant

Air conditioners built and installed after 2010 generally use R-410A refrigerant. Lacking a chlorine atom, this type is more eco-friendly and is commonly known as Puron. Puron absorbs and releases heat more efficiently and has a lower condensation temperature, reducing the electricity needed to cool your home. It was developed in the 1990s as companies looked for a replacement for CFCs.

R-32 Refrigerant

The newest type of air conditioner refrigerant, R-32, has a lower energy consumption than R-410A and, by extension, less of an environmental impact. Air conditioners charged with R-32 use almost 20% less refrigerant than even new systems with R-410A. Your air conditioner doesn’t have to cycle as often to provide the set temperature, lowering your electric bill.

How Does Refrigerant Work?

The air conditioner’s fan pulls hot air from the home and moves the air across the evaporator coils. These coils hold the liquid refrigerant, which absorbs the heat, and the refrigerant turns into a gas. The gas goes to the compressor as the system pushes cool air into the home. Inside the compressor, the gas pressure rises until it turns into liquid again in the condenser coil, and the cooling cycle starts over.

How Can I Check What Kind of Refrigerant My AC Uses?

If the system was built and installed before 2010, it probably uses R-22. Most units have a sticker on the outdoor condenser listing the type of refrigerant. The type should be noted in the user manual. You can also ask the HVAC technician during a maintenance appointment.

What Does it Mean to Recharge the Refrigerant?

Recharging an air conditioner adds more refrigerant until the system has the appropriate amount. It’s often done after repairing a leak and should only be done by an HVAC technician. This is because of the high-pressure levels; without the proper equipment, you have a substantial risk of damaging the air conditioner.

Signs Your AC Needs Refrigerant Work

Sometimes it’s easy not to realize your AC needs refrigerant work and believe the issue lies in a different part of the system. But, if you suspect or find the unit has a leak, never try to fix it yourself. Call an HVAC technician. They have the appropriate equipment and tools to protect you and the air conditioner since the refrigerant is harmful if ingested, inhaled, or touched.

AC is on, but no cool air is coming out

An AC with a low refrigerant level won’t absorb heat and humidity as usual. The result is only warm air, or less air, coming from your home’s air vents.

Higher than Usual or Increasing Electric Bills

Without the required amount of refrigerant to work efficiently, your air conditioner begins to cycle or run more frequently to compensate. Remember, the refrigerant absorbs warm air; without it, the unit tries to keep up with the thermostat temperature. More cycling means more electricity consumption and, thus, a higher electric bill.

Coils are Frozen

Though it sounds counterintuitive, the coils freeze when there isn’t enough refrigerant. The warm air flowing over them freezes as the cold refrigerant flows backward. When this happens, it’s imperative to repair the issue quickly, or the compressor could freeze and cause a complete system failure.

You haven’t had a tune-up in a while

These appointments allow an HVAC technician to give the entire air conditioner system a thorough look over and make repairs if necessary. If, for example, your AC has the beginnings of a refrigerant leak, the technician can fix the leak and recharge the unit before any significant damage occurs. Regular tune-ups help the AC extend its functional lifespan and operate efficiently.

The next time you’re relaxing in a comfortable air-conditioned home, thank the science behind the refrigerant flowing in the system.

If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, or has any other issues, contact Sierra Air Inc., for reliable and professional HVAC service.

Most air conditioners start without issue after the winter. But some don’t, causing a bit of a headache for homeowners. If your AC system was one that stopped working over winter, we go over a few reasons why it may have happened and how you can prepare it for the spring.

Tripped Breaker, Blown Fuse, or Emergency Shutoff

A tripped breaker or blown fuse aren’t usual reasons an air conditioner stops working over winter. But they happen and are a good place to start troubleshooting. Inside the fuse box, find the fuse corresponding to the AC system. Replace the fuse and try turning on the air conditioner. If it doesn’t turn on, move to the circuit breaker box.

Inside the breaker box, find the AC breaker and see if it’s in the off position. If so, flip the breaker on and wait a few seconds. If it stays on, great; if not, don’t try to flip it again and call an HVAC technician as soon as possible.

Conversely, the emergency shutoff switch is usually installed outside near the condenser. A simple switch, it can be easily moved on or off. Therefore, a passing bump or nudge is enough force to flip it off by accident.

Weather Damage (from wind and rain)

Whether it’s tree branches or limbs crashing down on the condenser unit, or blown dirt and mud jamming up the fan blades, winter weather damage may be a culprit. Make sure to check the outside unit after any storm and look inside the caging for sticks and twigs that can impede internal parts.

Blower and Fan Failure

Most air conditioners share the blower motor and fan with the furnace or heat pump. These parts frequently have a large workload through the winter which can cause wear and tear, and eventual breakdown. When running, both are generally quiet unless there’s an issue. Then you may hear screeching, squealing, grinding, and other noises.

Clogged Drain Line

The condensate drain line carries moisture, namely condensation, away from moisture sensitive parts and out of the air conditioner. But, the drain line is the perfect environment for mold, mildew, and gunk to form and create a clog. As moisture backs up in the clogged line, sensors in the air conditioner shut the system down to prevent further issue.

Capacitor Failure

Every air conditioner has two capacitors powering the condenser motor. The start capacitor provides enough power for the condenser to begin running while the run capacitor supplies power during the cooling cycle. One or both capacitors may fail if the AC system cycles on and off more than usual as the extra wear and tear causes a breakdown.

The start and run capacitors in the condenser motor provide power to the motor during two parts of the cooling cycle. If the air conditioner frequently cycles on and off, the capacitors wear prematurely and eventually fail. They’re also affected by high temperatures and can fail after overheating.

Prepare AC for Spring

After sitting idle for several months, it’s important to prepare the air conditioner for another season of use instead of simply turning it on.

Clean debris around the condenser

As mentioned, yard debris is a problem for the outdoor condenser unit. Use a broom or brush to wipe down the four sides and remove any visible debris from the top opening, where the fan blades are located. The condenser needs at least two feet of space clear around all sides at all times. This is for the unit’s temperature regulation which is affected by its ventilation.

Change the air filter

The air filter should be changed on a regular basis, such as every two to three months. The filters come in a range of sizes, so before buying a new one, verify the size by looking at the dimensions on the side. Air filters are available for purchase at department and hardware stores.

Test the thermostat

Now is a great time to rule out any thermostat issues by testing it. Turn the thermostat from heat mode to cool and listen for the system to begin running. Let it run for a few minutes then check the air vents for cool air. If you feel cool air, the thermostat and air conditioner are ready for spring and beyond!

Schedule a tune-up

An easy way to prepare your AC system for spring and beyond is by scheduling a tune-up. During this appointment, an HVAC technician inspects all parts for issues, including those that may develop as the system runs. It’s a great way to keep the air conditioner healthy and efficient for multiple seasons.

If you want your home’s air conditioner to turn on after winter, take the time to prepare it for the cooling season and schedule a tune-up. Contact Sierra Air Inc. today for reliable air conditioner service.

If changing the batteries in your HVAC thermostat isn’t something you think about, it should be. This simple task takes mere minutes and usually doesn’t require any tools. In return, you gain the peace of mind that heating and cooling will work with the press of a button.

We’ll discuss how to tell when the thermostat batteries are low, what happens if you let them die, how frequently they should be changed, and how to change the batteries in three common HVAC thermostats.

How to Tell Thermostat Batteries are Low

While today’s HVAC thermostats are jam-packed with convenient features, each one relies on batteries to effectively talk back and forth with the system. When the batteries begin to drain beyond functional levels, you may see one or more of the following signs:

• An empty battery icon: Most thermostats provide up to a two-month notice before the batteries die. If yours shows an empty battery icon, it means the batteries have enough power to function for a little while, but not forever.
• Intermittent blank display screen: As the main power source behind the display, as the batteries begin to fail, the screen may begin to go blank then come back on.
• Misread the air temperature: Sensors inside the thermostat continually gauge how hot or cold the indoor air is. Without ample power from the batteries, the sensors are unable to judge and may cause the HVAC to not turn on or off as needed.

What Happens if My Thermostat Batteries Die?

Simply put, your HVAC system won’t work. You’ll see a blank thermostat display that doesn’t respond when pressing buttons or tapping the screen. If you have a smart thermostat, commands from a voice assistant or smartphone app are rendered moot. If it’s an extremely hot or cold day, you won’t have the comfort — and safety — provided by the system until the batteries are replaced.

How to Change a Wall Thermostat Battery

This style of thermostat is what comes to mind for people when talking about an HVAC thermostat.

1. Remove the display housing from the wall-mounted plate.
2. Turn the cover over to view the batteries.
3. Use a small, flathead screwdriver or your fingers to remove the batteries from their slots.
4. Align the new battery ends with the correct terminal in the slots and press into place.
5. Realign the display housing posts with the wall-mounted plate and press the housing until it clicks in place.

How to Change a Honeywell Thermostat Battery

Did you know that the iconic Honeywell round thermostat is in the Smithsonian Institute? This well-known company has grown since the days of the round, but still manufactures thermostats that make changing the batteries easy.

1. Look on the top right of the thermostat for a push tab.
2. Press the tab down until the battery compartment loosens, possibly slightly dislodging from the thermostat housing.
3. Gently pull the battery compartment toward yourself and tip it so the existing batteries fall out.
4. Align the new battery ends with the compartment markings and insert them into their slots.
5. Gently slide the battery compartment bottom-first into the thermostat and press until it clicks securely in place.

How Often Should I Change the Batteries?

Ideally, the batteries should be changed as soon as you see a low battery indicator. Otherwise, most homeowners don’t have heating and cooling interruptions when changing the batteries once a year. But once a year should be the minimum, especially if the thermostat is hardwired and only uses batteries for backup power.

What Kind of Batteries Should I Use in the Thermostat?

If you’ve never changed the batteries in the thermostat, refer to what the user’s manual says. Make sure to buy and use batteries from a known brand and that are the correct voltage. Using batteries with an improper amperage will cause them to drain more quickly, thus having to change batteries more often. The most common batteries found in an HVAC thermostat are:

• One 9-volt battery
• One button-style 3-volt lithium battery
• Two AA batteries
• Two AAA batteries

Changing the batteries in your HVAC thermostat is easy to learn, usually doesn’t require more than a few minutes and maybe a small screwdriver to remove the existing batteries. But it’s a surefire way to enjoy a comfortable indoor climate all year long.

If your HVAC thermostat isn’t working correctly, or you have other issues with the system, schedule an appointment with Sierra Air Inc. today.

As winter passes and warmer weather approaches, you will start to use your air-conditioning again. And from a lack of use during the winter, this could lead to a few strange and unexpected smells in your home.

What’s causing these odors? Here are some of the most common reasons these smells come from your HVAC system.

Rotten Eggs

The most common reason for a rotten egg smell in the home is usually a sign of a gas leak.

If you suspect a gas leak, you should immediately leave your home and call a technician as soon as possible. Natural gas can cause an explosion, so it must be dealt with quickly.

If it’s not a gas leak, you may have a deceased pest in your duct work. An HVAC service technician can inspect and clean out your duct work.

Sewage

The smell of sewage is one that no one wants to experience. Sewage smells can be associated with problems in your HVAC system, but there may be other causes, like plumbing issues.

The following are some common causes:

• Clogged drain line. If your drain line is clogged and cannot drain properly, water may be back up into the air handler, causing a foul odor.
• Dirty air filter. Dirty air filters can cause a sewage-like smell to permeate through your home.
• Sewage leak near the HVAC unit. A sewage leak’s odor can seep into the HVAC ducts, pushing the odor through the vents.

Dirty Socks

“Dirty sock syndrome” is a common problem in home HVAC systems. This is caused by the presence of mold and mildew in the ductwork. The ductwork is a part of the HVAC system which is often forgotten about when it comes to cleaning.

Mold and mildew have a smell that can spread through your entire house. They can also cause health problems for you and your family if you don’t take care of them immediately. The sock smell is not only an odor but also a sign that your ducts are not clean enough and need to be cleaned properly.

Mold can also grow on your evaporator coil. Booking regular HVAC tune-ups and maintenance keeps your system clean and avoids these nasty HVAC smells. You don’t want to be breathing in those mold spores.

Mustiness

If your air conditioner smells like mildew, mold, or mildew, you’re not imagining things. It is a common problem with air conditioning units. This odor can be caused by many different things, but the most common cause is a lack of proper maintenance.

When dirt builds up on your air conditioner’s coils, it will begin to absorb moisture from the air and create condensation on them. That’s where that musty smell comes from.

You should have your unit serviced at least once yearly, if not more often. If you don’t do this, dirt and other debris can build up inside your system and start to cause problems. This could result in an unpleasant odor coming through the vents in your home.

Electrical Odors

Electrical odors from the HVAC system can signify a faulty capacitor or other electrical components. The smell may be obvious, like burnt toast, or it may be more subtle.

There are several reasons why an electrical odor might be coming from your HVAC unit, including:

• The blower motor has gone bad and is shorting out. This can happen if you have a short in the wiring or if the motor itself is failing.
• The circuit board has failed and is overheating (called thermal runaway). The circuit board controls everything that happens with the blower motor and the fan speeds.
• Faulty wiring
• Overheating electrical resistance heaters

Oil

The smell of oil can be a problem in your home if it’s coming from the HVAC system. This is because the oil should be pumped into the system. Then it should be circulated throughout the compressor, evaporator, and condenser to keep them working correctly. If any of these parts are damaged or leaking, you’ll notice an odor.

The first thing you want to do is shut off your HVAC system. Then, look at all of the components that make up your HVAC system. You’ll want to check for any leaks or damage before moving forward with diagnosing where the smell is coming from.

If unsure, call a professional technician who can investigate further and find out what’s causing this problem. Doing this sooner rather than later can prevent more expensive repairs in the future.

Struggling to find the source of your HVAC smells? Contact the HVAC pros at Sierra and get rid of those annoying odors.

 

A MERV rating is an HVAC air filter rating guide to help you pick the right air filter for your home. When you breathe in polluted air, you’re breathing in tiny particles of dust and dirt that can trigger allergies, asthma, and other health problems.

The efficiency of your heating, ventilating, and air conditioning system has a lot to do with the filter you use. Air filters come in different sizes, shapes, designs, and MERV ratings.

We’ve put together some information to help you understand more about MERV ratings and why choosing the right filter is essential.

What is a MERV Rating?

The term “MERV” stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value and was developed by the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE).

The society created this standard in the 1980s as part of its effort to improve indoor air quality through better ventilation systems.

The MERV rating of a filter indicates its ability to capture fine particles such as dust, pollen, smoke, and other particulate matter. A higher MERV rating means the filter can better capture these particles.

Understanding a MERV Rating

How much dust and pollen are in your area? The higher the amount of dust in the air outside your home, the higher the quality air filter you should select.

The higher the MERV value, the more efficiently the filter removes particles from the air. MERV 13 and above filters are considered high-efficiency filters. They are well-suited for areas with high air pollution or with individuals who have allergies.

However, you don’t always need to buy the highest MERV-rated filter. Air filters with a high MERV rating trap large amounts of fine particles and can clog up your HVAC system. This causes the system to work harder and can break down more often.

Check with your local HVAC technician to find out which is the best MERV rating for your home’s needs.

MERV Ratings and Their Uses

MERV ratings are the industry standard for rating the filtration of your HVAC system. They measure how well an air filter can capture dust and allergens from the air passing through it.

MERV rating 1-7

A MERV rating of 1-7 indicates that a filter will remove larger particles but not smaller ones. This is why they’re typically used in places that already have good airflow, like factories and industrial settings.

Filters that only capture larger particles don’t use as much energy. But don’t be tempted to use a low-rated air filter in your home. You may save money, but you’ll also be putting your health at risk.

MERV Rating 8-13

Buying an 8-13 MERV-rated filter for your home’s central air conditioning system means you’ll get excellent filtration to keep your home’s air clean and clear of dust and other airborne particles.

<In a nutshell, the more pollution you want to remove from your home, the higher the MERV rating should be. For example, a MERV 13 filter can remove particles as small as 0.3–1 micron from the air.

MERV Rating 14-20

Hospital and laboratory air filters are designed for maximum efficiency, which means they have a very high MERV rating.

Hospitals and laboratories know how dangerous airborne pathogens can be to patients and staff. That’s why they often choose the highest MERV rating possible, because they want their air filters to capture as many particles as possible.

If you want to protect your family from smaller particles, opting for a HEPA filter is best.

Does a HEPA Filter Have a MERV Rating?

HEPA (high-efficiency particulate absorbing) filters have become the gold standard of home air purifiers.

They’re designed to remove up to 99.97% of particles as small as 0.3 microns from the air, which helps reduce pollutants such as pollen, dust, pet dander, and smoke that triggers allergies or respiratory infections.

Some think a vacuum with a HEPA filter is enough to rid their homes of allergens and germs. But this isn’t always the case because they don’t capture airborne particles inside your house — like smoke or dust. A HEPA air purifier will help remove those particles while also cleaning the air around it.

Finally, your air filter won’t last forever, regardless of your MERV rating.

If you notice your HVAC unit producing more noise than usual or working harder, it’s time for a new filter.

Additionally, if you have any allergy symptoms, such as sneezing or watery eyes, then this may also be a sign that your filter needs to be changed immediately!

The bottom line is that air filters should be replaced on a regular schedule determined by the manufacturer or HVAC technician who installed them. Most filters need changing every few months. It’s a routine job and can be carried out during an HVAC tune-up.

Still trying to decide which air filter is best for your home? Contact the HVAC experts at Sierra Air for more help and information.

Saving money on your energy bills doesn’t have to be complicated. There are a lot of simple things you can do to reduce your energy use, save money on your bills, and help the environment.

Here are tips to get you started and help you on your way to low energy bills.

Get an Energy Audit

The first thing to do is get an energy audit. An energy audit will tell you where your biggest energy-loss culprits are and what you can do to fix them. You can do it yourself, but it’s easier with a professional.

A good energy auditor will look at the whole house and recommend ways to save money and reduce your carbon footprint. They’ll also recommend specific repairs, such as sealing leaks in your ductwork or installing new insulation in your attic.

Even better, energy auditors may also be able to help you get rebates for installing certain types of equipment and appliances that use less energy.

You’ll come away with a list of recommendations to help you reduce your energy consumption. Of course, it might involve investing money to implement the suggestions. But many home improvements pay for themselves within two years by generating low energy bills.

Make Sure Your Home is Insulated

Insulation prevents heat from escaping through the walls of your house during winter and keeps heat inside during summer. This means less power is needed for heating or cooling and less money spent on bills.

In addition, insulation keeps your home comfortable year-round. You can lower your thermostat by a few degrees during the summer or winter, saving you even more money on energy bills!

Moreover, insulating your home also helps reduce noise pollution and lower moisture levels preventing mold growth.

Insulate Your Water Heater

The secret to low energy bills is to insulate your water heater. It’s a simple, no-cost way to reduce the heat lost through your hot water pipes, which means less work for your furnace or air conditioner.

Covering your water heater can help keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer. You can buy a cover at home improvement stores or online. In addition, some manufacturers sell custom insulated covers that fit snugly around the tank.

Use Appliances During Off-Peak Hours

One simple way to save money on your electric bill is to use appliances during off-peak hours. This means that instead of running the dishwasher or washing machine and other major appliances like the dryer, you should wait until 8:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m., when most people are not as active, and demand for electricity is lower.

Change Your Air Filter

The air filter in your HVAC system is one of the most essential parts of the unit, and it can also be one of the easiest to forget about.

But when you don’t change your filters regularly, you’re essentially letting dust and dirt build up inside your system. This can cause problems with efficiency, which means you’ll be paying more for your electricity bill than you need to.

The best way to keep your filters clean is to schedule regular HVAC maintenance.

Lower the Settings on Your Thermostat

Lowering the temperature by just a few degrees can make a big difference in your energy bill. And chances are you won’t even feel the difference.

In addition, you can save money by using a programmable thermostat that reduces heat or air conditioning when you leave your home or office. You can also set it to turn off when no one is there.

Landscape for Shade

Shade trees and dense scrub can save you money on your energy bills by reducing your air conditioner usage in the summer as the trees block out some of the heat. They also insulate your home by adding a layer of protection between your home and the cold weather conditions. And the best thing is, they also add curb appeal to your home.

Replace Your Showerhead

Replacing your old showerhead with a low-flow model can help you save money on water and energy costs by reducing both water consumption and energy use from heating that water.

Use LED Light Bulbs

LED lighting is an energy-efficient alternative to traditional incandescent bulbs and CFLs. In addition, LED light bulbs are designed to last a long time, and they don’t contain mercury like some other types of bulbs.

Make Sure to Get HVAC Maintenance and Tune-Ups

A HVAC tune-up is one of the best ways to make sure your energy bill stays low. Regular maintenance extends the life of your equipment by keeping it free from dirt, dust, lint, and other contaminants that build up over time. This reduces wear on moving parts and makes it easier for the unit to run properly. The harder the unit has to work, the more energy is used.

An HVAC system working at peak efficiency means lower utility bills for you.

Need HVAC maintenance? Get affordable HVAC care with the professionals at Sierra.

Space heaters are one of the easiest and most convenient ways to keep warm during the cool winter months. When used correctly, they can work well to heat a small area. But, like any electronic device, space heaters have a few potential hazards. Follow these easy tips to use a space heater safely.

Keep the Space Heater on the Floor

When using a portable space heater, it’s essential to keep it on the floor. Never put it on a table or countertop — that’s how fires start. Also, be conscious of what material your space heater is on. Carpets, rugs, and other flammable materials should be avoided. The best place to put your space heater is on a smooth tiled floor or a heatproof mat.

To use a space heater safely, never put it on top of furniture or appliances because it could fall and cause a serious injury or fire. When you place a space heater on top of tables or dressers, you risk burning yourself or damaging your belongings.

Move Flammable Objects Away

Space heaters are generally not intended as the primary heating source in any room or area of a home or building. Instead, they’re designed to supplement central heating systems in small rooms or spaces where additional heat is desired.

Never place anything on top of your heater — even if it’s turned off — because it could overheat and start a fire if accidentally turned back on while items are on top of it.

And keep all flammable objects away from your space heater, including curtains and drapes. Ideally, anything should be at least 3 feet away from your space heater. Even if the space heater is turned off, make sure nothing is around it until it’s completely cooled.

Never Leave the Space Heater Unattended

Never leave your space heater unattended. If you go to sleep or leave the house for any length of time, turn off the space heater and unplug it.

Because space heaters are so easy to use and provide such quick results, many people leave them on after they’ve left the room, even for a bathroom break. However, leaving your space heater unattended can be dangerous.

Always unplug your space heater before leaving the room or going to bed at night. The fact is that a space heater should never be left unsupervised. If the space heater overheats while you are out, the damage can be astronomical.

Avoid Using Power strips or Extension Cords

Extension cords should never be used with space heaters because they are not meant for such high-wattage devices.

Extension cords and power strips aren’t designed for use with high-wattage appliances like space heaters. This means that when you plug your space heater into an extension cord or power strip, it can overheat, causing a fire or even melting the insulation on the wire. In addition, this could potentially cause an electrical shock when touched by someone nearby.

Keep Kids and Pets Away

Curious children and hot space heaters are a bad combination. Children can burn themselves from touching the hot surfaces or knock over the space heater by getting tangled in the cord.

If you must use a space heater in an area where there are young children, install safety guards around the front of the unit. Ensure that no part of the guard is missing or damaged so fingers cannot get caught inside. The same goes for curious pets. They could get burned by touching the heated surface or accidentally knock it over.

Never Put it Near Liquids

Water and space heaters don’t mix. It’s a common misconception that you can use a space heater in the bathroom or near water, it can cause an electric shock or start a fire.

This is because water conducts electricity, when it comes into contact with an electrical source, it can cause sparks or fire.

If you notice that your space heater is getting wet, immediately turn off the power and remove the plug from the wall. Also, never use your space heater in the bathroom or near sinks.

Contact the experts at Sierra for your home heating needs this winter.